I can’t think of a better place to kick off this site’s coverage of Chicago restaurants than in North Lawndale. I grew up on the West Side, so I’m always down to try a new spot on my side of town. The West Side is the best side, and I won’t hear any arguments saying otherwise.
It’s great to see more upscale dining options coming to neighborhoods like North Lawndale (Soulé recently opened in the neighborhood as well) because they typically don’t have the same quantity of them as neighborhoods on the North Side or near downtown. There are single blocks in Logan Square or River North that probably have more restaurants than a mile stretch of a neighborhood like North Lawndale.
Does that make them better restaurants? Not necessarily. And who wants to go to the same block over and over to eat dinner, anyway?
So that brings us to The Soul Food Lounge, which opened late last year. The first thing you’ll notice about this restaurant is that it is absolutely beautiful. It’s on the smaller side, but its design is sleek and modern, while still being warm and approachable. A violinist played live music the Sunday night I went. The ambiance could not have been better.
At first glance, you’ll see that the menu has an extensive list of entrées that are globally influenced while drawing inspiration from traditional soul food items. Don’t stress out about deciding which one to try. You’re able to sample three entrées and a beverage through the restaurant’s “Grand Tasting.” Go this route. At $59, it’s one of the best deals in the city right now.
The Soul Food Lounge is BYOB, and, since I’m not drinking this year, I opted for the restaurant’s berry basil lemonade to drink. It was refreshing and had the perfect amount of sweetness. I hit a small speed bump while ordering my food—they were out of macaroni and cheese—but there was enough good stuff on the menu that I didn’t really mind. I ordered shrimp and grits; fried chicken; and Korean glazed short ribs.
The shrimp and grits arrived to the table first, and they were awesome. The shrimp was flavorful. The grits were creamy and smooth. And the sauce tied everything together, with the bacon adding a nice smokiness that took them to the next level.
And now let’s talk about the fried chicken. This was the best thing I ate all night and some of the best fried chicken of my life. It was sizzling hot, fresh from the fryer, and the maple glaze was insanely addictive. The grilled pound cake and crispy potatoes, even if they could have been a little crispier, were great vehicles for sopping up the extra sauce.
Last but not least, the short ribs. I was a little confused by this dish (aren’t short ribs supposed to have bones?) as the meat reminded me more of a pot roast. I’m not sure what made the glaze Korean; it had a savory umami flavor that tasted good. This is a dish that requires you to get the perfect bite. A little meat, some creamy mashed potatoes, and a bit of the earthy sautéed broccolini together was wonderful. Thus, I wish the broccolini had been chopped a little more. A single sprawling stalk looked beautiful on the plate but made it more challenging to get that perfect bite.
For dessert, I had caramel cake with almonds and chocolate sauce. My favorite caramel cake in Chicago is from Brown Sugar Bakery on 75th St., and this slice didn’t quite reach that level. It was still good, though. Caramel cake is one of the sweetest cakes you can eat, and I appreciated the thought behind including the almonds for both flavor and texture.
I don’t think I’ve had friendlier service in the past year than at The Soul Food Lounge. The level of attention would not be fore everyone; I told no less than six people that the food was good over a 15-minute period. But, since I was eating alone, I didn’t really mind. I always appreciate when restaurant staff go the extra mile to make you feel welcome. It’s always better to do too much than not enough.
This wasn’t a perfect meal, but not many things in life are. What’s important to know is that some of the best cooking in Chicago is happening in North Lawndale right now. I can’t wait to order another “Grand Tasting” soon to eat my way through more of the menu.
I will have to try new dishes two-at-a-time, however, because I don’t think I can go back without ordering the fried chicken again.
The Soul Food Lounge: 91/100.
Key: 85-100, Outstanding; 70-84, Good; 50-69, Okay; 0-49, Unsatisfactory
